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A Thenkalai Acharya’s Utsavam at a Vadakalai Temple

Varadaraja Perumal KoyilManavala Mamunigal Utsavam

The 10-day Manavala Mamunigal Utsavam began today morning (days computed such that the 10th concluding day coincides with Moola nakshatram) with a thirumanjanam for Mamunigal.

Tensions and differences between the Thenkalai and Vadakalai sects have defined Sri Vaishnavism for long; the two major remaining Vadakalai temples are Thiruvahindrapuram (and all its abhimana sthalams) and Kanchipuram. The Perumal Koyil in Pondicherry prides itself on having fostered a kind of rapprochement, even though the symbols of each sect are clearly broken and effaced from above the alvar sannadhis on the temple’s south east corner. But while the shrine to Mamunigal sits outside the temple walls at Thiruvahindrapuram, in this temple it’s inside, directly opposite to the one to Vedanta Desikar. This event is sponsored by the Naidu community, while Desikar’s utsavam is the domain of the Iyengars.

We are there (with Manish) in the morning and the evening, for the purappadu. Manish’s presence, or the need to explain to someone what it is that is happening, honestly compels us to slow a little and also observe more. But in general, there are all the familiar movements. The initial Prabandham recitation, followed by the commencement of the purappadu–which goes to face Perumal first, where the partivattan is brought to the swami and tied around his head plus Ramanan Bhattacharya has one slung on his shoulder, too. Then he moves thrice around the temple (first round Gambheeranattai mallari, the next two keerthanais as usual), the final Thiruanthikappu or Sama pariharam (pause before the Mamunigal shrine, naivedyam comes and is offered behind a screen, theertham shown to the swami, then to the kumbha vilakku, who receives an offering of a few specifically tossed tulasi leaves and just one criss-cross-fingered mudra before it is circled, then the arati whose red liquid is poured over the kolam and discarded, nadaswaram players circle the deity, and he’s carried back in). Here, however, we also pause for firecrackers, flower pots specifically, perhaps in acknowledgement of Deepavali? since this utsavam always coincides.

Screen closes again for a second alankaram, following which the elder priest does a deeparadhanai, and we sit for a 4 course prasadam! Sundal, mysorepak, kesari and puli-saadam. Wow. Then: Hecharige! And we have leave to rise and return home.

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