1030am when we get there, and there is a Thirumanjanam going on in the Kodandarama shrine. Done simultaneously to both the utsava murtis and the main murtis in the shrine. It’s very beautiful, several have gathered–men inside the enclosure, others sitting on either side outside. The process is the same as we’ve seen elsewhere, except that every time a substance is washed off, there is dhoopam (with dhoopakal), deepam (with kodi vilakku) - thattu vilakku, ie thrice.
One of the security guards helps us understand where photography is permitted (though the contradiction of important people taking photos of the moolasthanams and the practice otherwise being forbidden is evident). People are aware of the many contradictions that structure the daily functioning of the temple, but they find ways to make peace–by speaking of the importance of true devotion, God’s attention to us all regardless of status etc. Or at least they say they do!